The most difficult part is assembling the sink drain connections. The cabinet has two drawers that do not occupy the full depth of the cabinet in order to provide some space for the plumbing connections. That little amount of space trips up a lot of people. After I saw photos of this hack, I was somewhat hopeful that I can make it work. However, the waste line for my sink is pointing straight out, no 90-degree elbow as shown in those photos. And my guess is that almost everyone else is in the same boat. I read several other postings about cutting into the back of the drawers. I was determined to avoid that trouble. Here’s the end result of my hack:
I know this looks a bit nuts but trust me, it works! The sections between the wall and the p-trap fit in the space between the drawers. Here’s a view below the upper drawer:
And here’s the view above the bottom drawer:
The main reason I was able to hack into the between-the-drawers space is that I assembled the drawers and the drain pipes simultaneously. This might not work for your situation. In my case, the center of the sink waste line is about 18-1/2″ off the floor. I installed the sink cabinet at almost the lowest height recommended according to the Godmorgon installation instructions (a little higher than 28-7/8″). The bottom of the waste line ends up below the top edge of the bottom drawer. I wish I had installed the cabinet a little lower so that the waste line is centered between the drawers but no such luck. Perhaps for the folks who come after me, you will have a chance to improve on my hack.
After hanging the cabinet and setting up the drawers (complete the drawers’ adjustments explained at the end of the cabinet installation instructions) to determine their relationship against the waste line, it is time to figure out what plumbing parts you need to add to the IKEA’s sink drain kit. These are the slip-joint parts I installed – starting from the wall towards the J-bend of the p-trap:
- 1-1/2″ nut and washer
- 1-1/2″ quarter bend wall tube
- 1-1/2″ nut
- 1-1/2″ 45-degree elbow
- 1-1/2″ X 1-1/4″ reducing washer
- 1-1/2″ nut
- 1-1/4″ quarter bend wall tube
The elbow comes with a pair of nut and washer on each end. Replacing one of the washers with a reducing washer provides the transition needed to connect with the IKEA parts. In addition, I replaced the IKEA p-trap’s 90-degree waste arm with the 1-1/4″ wall tube. The waste arm appears to attach to the J-bend by compression. When I rehearsed the assembly, I couldn’t tighten the accompanied 1-1/4″ nut and washer enough to keep the waste arm attached. The wall tube also provides the flexibility to work with the other parts in some off-kilter angles.
In terms of the assembly, I started from each end of the connections (sink and waste line) and performed the cuts around the p-trap area. Although the IKEA instructions suggested cutting the sink drain pipe (the piece that connects with the metal drain flange under the sink), that’s the piece you should not cut at all. I actually wish that it is longer so I can set the vertical Y-branch (two branches at the top for the sink drain and overflow) at the far back corner of the cabinet. In the end, I positioned the J-bend and 1-1/4″ wall tube in an unusual way to make it work. If you want a super detailed step-by-step list of instructions modified with a few of my afterthoughts, click here.
Here are a few additional tips:
- Install the faucet before starting the drain installation but delay attaching the flexible supply lines after the drain is done. If it is an IKEA bathroom sink faucet, apply plumber’s putty on the underside of the faucet for a water tight seal (the thin black gasket that came with the faucet doesn’t do the trick).
- If you use a hack saw to cut the drain pipe parts, make sure to deburr the rough edges of the pipes (clog prevention). I used a file and box cutter. Alternatively, you can use a deburring tool. Or you can avoid all this trouble by using a PVC pipe cutter.
- If it becomes truly impossible to avoid cutting into the back of the drawers, consider using metal mending plates to bridge the wooden slats. (I bought some just in case but I didn’t have to use them after all – so lucky, I know.)
This is all I can remember. If you have done something similar, feel free to share your tips in the comments.